A Romantic Hypothesis
Ideas. Paper. Fabric.
A deep dive into Petra Stellam’s F24 collection
By Rodrigo Toledo
Sitting through about a half hour runway show with odd sounds, a dirt runway, what seemed to be clothing folded like origami, and an hour-long panel with interesting and confident characters, the unexpected was inevitable. What could be said about the brand, Petra Stellam, after the showing?
That this is a team with absolute potential.
Not only the potential to make a name for themselves, or to create fashion that is valuable as clothing and art, but the potential to make this city of ours a beacon to the world of fashion with their ideas and dedication. Let me take you on a trip of Petra Stellam’s Romantic Hypothesis collection and show you just why these artists will turn this industry on its head and give this city the fire it needs to join them on this odyssey to make Houston a pillar in fashion.
The Creators Behind the Paper and Fabric: the Pattern Maker and Seamstress
From a sewing activity between friends, Petra Stellam came from humble origins but the dream was far from small. After Luis Ruiz, founder and lead designer, decided to pursue fashion full time, he began a record of work with fashion teams that has been nothing short of impressive, having multiple internships and jobs right here in Houston alongside an internship with AREA in New York and contributed to other fashion brands in Houston before officially launching Petra Stellam in 2019.
His co-founder Krusain (K) is a powerhouse in his own right and his mysterious presence is something that contributes to the brand’s allure.
Petra Stellam was founded with the core ideals of sophistication, modernism, craftsmanship, and above all else, the idea of having the clothes they create have a sense of genuine artistry and story in them. Not only this, they aim to achieve a company that follows a model of sustainability to reduce waste and pollution.
Looking at the creations of this team, we have their 2021 Ready to Wear collection, their 2022 runway debut Materials, Stories, and Other Objects, and of course 2024’s Romantic Hypothesis. Their goal of experimenting and creating garments that are ready-to-wear for the casual wearer and those who want to have an elegant look to them is nothing short of impressive.
During Materials, Stories, and Other Objects it was just them and their team of models and production. Few makeup artists, no hairstylists, and had almost no help. When speaking to Luis and K after the panel, they knew they wanted to go bigger after the 2022 show— being more experimental and bringing Petra Stellam to a whole new level. They hired more crew, had makeup and stylists, and a new venue. This old rundown bank in Houston, once a sign of capitalism and wealth, became a homebase for artistic creation. Armed with new experience, resources, ideas, and a massive amount of dedication,
Petra Stellam was ready to unveil its new hypothesis on pattern making and what it means to create.
Lu and K, A Romantic Hypothesis Runway Show
Romantic Hypothesis: A Love Letter to the Process of Fashion
“Patterning is a complex process that unfolds on a two-dimensional canvas, comprising a network of lines and curves, meticulously guiding the transformation of these flat templates into intricate three-dimensional garments.”
This statement is the foundation of Stellam’s 2024 collection.
After the 2022 collection, the team knew they wanted to go bigger and blow the last show out of the water, and their inspiration came from two sources: paper and a burning question. Do people know where their clothing comes from?
Clothing goes through a process just as artwork does. It begins with a concept, rough sketches, given life with things such as pattern paper, then after more testing and possible changes, does it become a true piece of clothing.
The second inspiration was from an Instagram reel Ruiz watched involving a Japanese technique to make DIY home cards. He thought, “what if I used this in a future collection?” These two ideas mashed together to create what is a love letter to the process of making clothing. Taking pattern paper, something that is always used but never given credit or the ability to shine on its own, and giving it the opportunity to have its own spotlight within looks 1-15.
Seeing the show for the first time, these looks and walks were regal and almost serene with clothing that resembled origami. The musical choice of the show was also interesting, sounds of phones and electronic beeps made it just something that you had to pay attention to.
Once look 15 came and went, Petra Stellam had other ideas.
A concept alone is great, but what is needed to seal the deal is the end product. There was an intense change to the background track— something exciting, bold, and then…
It happened.
Looks 16-32 mirrored the concepts of 1-15 but completed with fabrics. It was something that demanded your total attention. The movement from the models also shifted. Whereas the original models moved at a calm relaxed pace with a sort of elegance to them, the second group moved with confidence, with a ferocity that said, “here I am— witness this”.
The concept that these items were presenting was greatly complimented with what seemed like a bizarre choice for a runway. Dirt.
While sounding odd, when described by the creators to be a representation of something sprouting from the dirt to become life, art… it fully brings their vision together. All of these ideas were so well executed, that anyone could truly grasp and appreciate them which is a complete and utter win on Petra Stellams part. The ability to take the medium of fashion and give it not only artistic but also philosophical value, is nothing short of amazing.
A Call to Progress
One of Petra Stellam’s most ambitious goals revealed at the panel was the aspiration for Houston to become a capital of fashion. There were comparisons to Paris and London tossed around but the message stayed the same, Luis and K want to see this city draw people from the industry in and have it be a respected hub for the profession like the aforementioned powers of the industry. Not only this, but possibly bring in something we lack which is educational resources for people who want to learn the trade using skills and teachings from across the country or even overseas.
They plan to do this by just doing what they do best, work hard on new and experimental ideas while releasing quality collections to grow the brand's presence among fashion superpowers. The best part about this, K is more than confident this will be a reality. Something revealed behind the scenes in an exclusive interview with stylist K was that his hope was not only for them to grow the city's presence, but his hope for others to do so as well.
When asked if he had anything to say to his potential fans or people that look up to him and Petra Stellam, he had this to say. “I hope I don't have any fans, I just want to help the kids out. I think there are so many talented kids here. I want to show them that you can do anything, because we grew from nothing. And there are just so many great kids here and so much talent”. When questioned on his absolute confidence he delivered a simple yet effective message.
“The way I see it is, if you're competent enough and motivated enough, you'll stick to it, you just work. I work every day and you can see its results, so just work hard in whatever you believe in— even if nobody agrees with you”.
- Krusain
The last message he wanted to send off was one of hope, hoping his fellow creators pursue their education, work hard, and hopefully see some beautiful creations from the students at the University of Houston.
If you, dear reader, leave this page with something, it should be that we as creators should aspire to greatness, and that with enough elbow grease, dedication, and creativity, we aren’t that far behind making big waves like Luis and K have.
Petra Stellam’s Next Mystery
Luis and K have kept details for their next collection behind sealed lips, but we have some clues to buzz over while we wait for their next masterpiece. For one, K being the proud man he is, announced the possibility of an astounding 50 looks for their next project— a massive step up from their previous 32. Not only this, but they're moving on from exclusively women's fashion into unisex territory, for all the boys and girls who wish to dress in their garments.
They graciously left a reporter one question, one crumb of information that we can all ponder on as time ticks by for this mystery to be unraveled.
What makes you tailored?
Written by: Rodrigo Toledo
Edited by: Jade Mpeye
