BLACK HISTORY IN THE MAKING
Too cultural.
Too different.
…Too Black.
Black designers are often encouraged to strip themselves of who they are upon presenting their work to the masses, negating all the obstacles they encountered along their journey. Consistently having to outperform and prove that their “too much” is the blueprint of luxury fashion and setting standards is their calling.
The glass ceiling is high, and Black designers have a lot to overcome to reach it. In celebrating all things Black History, shining the spotlight on designers, global and local, that are changing the narrative of Black creation through fashion is necessary.
These designers are part of a lineage that created the luxury fashion playbook and yet have one of the most complicated relationships with it—
but these obstacles are far from the end of their stories.
You’ve probably heard of these… Established designers.
Based in Long Island City, NYC, Smith began his designing career at 21 years old. Inspired by his grandmother who gave him his first glimpse of the fashion world through sewing and pattern making, Smith debuted his namesake brand in 2013.
He specializes in glamorous luxury womenswear and after 15 years of risk taking and pouring his signature flair into his art, Smith has garnered a roster of celebrity support from Beyonce to Tyla and everyone in between.
During this time, Smith has won the 2024 Fashion Vanguard Award and continues to use his expertise seen in his debut menswear line from the same year available at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Baba Jagne, JAGNE
Based in Los Angeles, California, Jagne started his journey in fashion as a child. Born to a family of skilled tailors and seamstresses in Gambia, detailed craftsmanship was second nature.
When he came to the United States 2002, his dreams were to become a full-fledged designer and around 2015, he began with creating womenswear pieces that were unique for each client to compliment their body proportions. With time, Jagne then established his mark by becoming a “tailor for the stars” with clients such as Cardi B, Jaren Jackson, and Naomi Campbell. After gaining recognition, he launched JAGNE officially to bridge African design with a modern lens.
Baba Jagne continues his forward-thinking work with new collections such as “LA CRAVATE CACHÉ” and owns an atelier in downtown Los Angeles.
You HAVEN’T heard of these? Up-and-coming designers.
Based in the United Kingdom, British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker stays true to her brand’s core pillars of community, craftsmanship, and culture through sustainable innovation and honoring cultural inspiration.
After graduating from Central Saint Martins, Coker launched her brand in 2018. Gathering inspiration from societal aspects and identity politics, her largely unisex collections have her unique multi-disciplinary touch. Since launch, she has participated in London Fashion Weeks and her versatility through documentaries, clothing, and illustration has been commissioned by outlets such as Vogue Italia, Diesel, Dr Martens, and Vice Media.
Featured in VOGUE as a sustainability trailblazer and recent semi-finalist of the LVMH Prize, Coker is absolutely a shooting star not to be missed.
Tolu Coker is available to shop on Net-a-Porter.
Rachel Scott, Diotima
Kingston, Jamaica born and based in New York, Rachel Scott of Diotima is on a mission to bring the artisanal excellence of Jamaica to the global stage. Scott’s Diotima is most recogniable for its detailed and unique crochet work to honor the artisians of Jamaica.
Scott studied at the Colgate University of New York before furthering her education at the Instituto Marangoni in Milan, Italy. She worked on the teams of Rachel Comey and Costume National before launching her brand during the pandemic. Since then, Diotima has been styled on stars like actress Letita Wright and singer Doja Cat and Rachel Scott received the 2024 CFDA American Womenswear of the Year Award.
You should become familiar with these… Houston designers.
Josh Udeh, UDEH
Josh Udeh is a Nigerian-American designer based in Houston, Texas who specializes in both men’s and women’s ready to wear fashion.
Udeh’s debut collection “When Wind Meets Fire” launched December 2024. Drawing inspiration from his Nigerian heritage and American upbringing, the collection reimagines Nigerian fashion with elements from the 1970’s and cultural rites of passage that recognize growth like Iwa-Akwa, an Igbo initiation ceremony highlighting the transition into manhood. This show was the beginning of the long lasting imprint Josh Udeh will leave on the Houston scene.
UDEH’s FW ‘24 collection was recently seen on the Houston Ballet’s first soloist, Harper Watters for a Black History Month shoot. The designer’s creative spin, drive for exploration, and overall themes of his collection were brought to center stage— showcasing Udeh’s innovative approach to blending cultural narratives with contemporary fashion.
Udeh embodies the heartbeat of his culture, demonstrating how a fresh take on tradition can create something beautiful.
Jordan Carter, Vorise
Based in Houston, Texas, Jordan Carter is most definitely true to this. Carter began Vorise in 2021, and through the brand pays homage to her family’s Louisiana background— most notably, her mother and great-grandmother, Lula Mae Vorise. Carter has had years of work under her belt as a designer, stylist, event curator, and founder of Millenial Merch agency and magazine.
Carter’s FW ‘24 titled, “The Roots Are Deep” debuted December 2024 in which the looks were inspired from the designer’s life and journey in different realms through themes of spirituality, motherhood, and family. In the designer’s words, the collection, “invite[s] you to explore the roots that define [her] &, perhaps, find a connection to your own”.
Carter is a Houston diamond in the making who’s work tells a story and honors her own. Vorise can be purchased in person at Tadaima Asch.
Tens across the board, right?
We know Black History Month to be in celebration of historical greats in various sectors, but how inspiring is it to witness history in the making with these luxury designers? Let this article be the catalyst to more research and celebration of these designers, their backstories, impeccable work, and accomplishments. Being in the same timeline in which these designers receive their well-deserved flowers is all that is needed to give courage to stay committed to your journey.
Always remember there is a seat at the table for everyone.
Time for you to claim yours.
Written by: Jade Mpeye
Edited by: Kayla Ruvalcaba